It is true that certain ingredients used in perfume can cause allergic reactions in some people. This is the area where the scientific evidence is most consistent. That is why these ingredients are subject to strict rules and must also be listed when they are present in a perfume at a concentration higher than 0.001% in the finished product.

Annex II of European Regulation No 1223/2009 contains a list of more than 1,700 substances that are completely banned from cosmetics, and this list is updated regularly. A limited number of these substances were also used in perfume in the past, such as lilial and certain natural oakmoss extracts, but these substances are now banned.

Annex III of the same regulation contains a list of substances that are permitted, but which must be listed on the packaging because they can cause allergic reactions in part of the population (estimated at between 1 and 9%) [4]. The first directive in 2003 listed 26 fragrance allergens, and in 2023 this list was expanded to 82 following advice from the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety).

Please note: the expansion was established in 2023, but only became mandatory from 31 July 2026 for new products placed on the market. Products that were already being sold before then may continue to carry the old, shorter list on their labels until 31 July 2028.

IFRA has also established concentration limits for these substances in its Code of Practice. Although this is not formal EU legislation, compliance with IFRA guidelines is effectively essential for any serious perfume brand.

Myth to debunk right away: “natural” does not mean “allergen-free”. Essential oils and plant extracts also contain substances that appear on the official allergen list. Lavender, bergamot, geranium: all natural, and all potentially containing allergens [3][4]. Not because nature is “dangerous”, but because an allergy depends on your individual body, not on the origin of a molecule.

What this means for you: if you have a known sensitivity, whether to a synthetic fragrance ingredient or a natural essential oil, it is advisable to check the ingredient list.

This is where things usually get complicated on social media. Is it true that perfume disrupts your hormones?

What “endocrine disruptor” means scientifically

To be clear: “hormone disruptor” and “endocrine disruptor” refer to the same concept. “Endocrine” is simply the scientific term for your hormonal system [5].

Scientists do, however, make a clear distinction between two concepts that are sometimes used interchangeably:

• Endocrine-active: a substance interacts with your hormonal system without causing demonstrable harm.
• Endocrine-disrupting: that interaction also causes a demonstrated, lasting harmful effect.

Only in the second case does science refer to a true endocrine disruptor [5][6]. Even completely natural substances, such as phytoestrogens in soy, are endocrine-active without therefore being considered dangerous.

Some individual substances, including certain phthalates and synthetic musks, have been under scientific scrutiny for some time and have therefore already been restricted or banned in fragrance formulations. But “some substances, under certain circumstances” is a very different statement from “perfume disrupts your hormones”. The latter is an exaggeration that is not supported by regulatory science: in the EU, every substance suspected of having endocrine-disrupting properties is thoroughly evaluated and, where necessary, restricted or banned before the product ever reaches a shelf [1][10].

Is this system criticised? Absolutely, and we take those criticisms seriously: some advocacy organisations argue that the industry sets its own standards and that not every substance has been studied in detail [15]. That is a legitimate point of scientific debate. But an ongoing debate is different from an established fact. It is rather like the debate around dietary advice: science evolves, regulations are continuously tightened, and “under investigation” does not mean “proven harmful”. And again: even if a substance is an endocrine disruptor, it is the dose you are exposed to, across all the products you use every day, that makes the difference.

“It goes straight into your bloodstream”

This claim can easily go viral, but it is inaccurate.

Imagine your skin as a fine filter. Most substances in perfume are either too large or chemically unsuitable to pass through that filter: they remain on the surface and largely evaporate into the air. That is actually how you smell a fragrance: the molecules your nose detects have already evaporated before they ever get the chance to penetrate your skin [23].

A small proportion of certain substances is small enough to pass through that filter. This is neither a secret nor a conspiracy: it is precisely why scientists test the dermal absorption of each fragrance ingredient individually [23]. In the past, safety researchers used an extremely cautious assumption of 100% dermal absorption, but newer research shows that this significantly overestimates absorption for most fragrance ingredients, precisely because perfume is designed to evaporate rather than penetrate the skin like a body lotion [23].

It is also important to distinguish between the fact that a certain percentage of a substance is absorbed through the skin and the fact that that same amount actually reaches the bloodstream.

“Never spray perfume on your neck, it damages your thyroid”

This claim has also gone viral on Instagram and TikTok. There is a kernel of science behind it, but the conclusion does not hold up anatomically.

What is true: certain fragrance ingredients, including phthalates and synthetic musks, can be absorbed through the skin. Scientists are investigating their possible role as endocrine disruptors, including potential effects on thyroid hormones. This is legitimate and serious research [12].

What is not true: the leap from “this substance can affect the hormonal system” to “therefore never spray it on your neck because it goes straight to your thyroid” is anatomically unfounded. The thyroid gland does not sit directly beneath the skin and is not a directly exposed or absorbing surface: it is protected by layers of skin, subcutaneous tissue, fascia and neck muscles [21][22]. Chemicals applied to the skin do not travel vertically to the organ underneath. Some of a substance may be absorbed through the skin, and some of that amount may then enter the body's normal circulation, but it does not travel directly to the nearest organ. Perfume sprayed on your wrist does not affect the blood vessels in your wrist any more than perfume sprayed on your neck directly affects your thyroid [21][22].

The scientific consensus: there is no evidence that perfume applied to the neck directly affects the thyroid because of anatomical proximity [21][22]. Scientific concerns about perfume and hormones relate to prolonged, cumulative exposure to specific substances through all products combined. They do not relate to where you apply your perfume. If you want to take extra precautions, for example if you already have thyroid problems, it makes sense to choose perfumes without phthalates and other known endocrine-active substances, regardless of whether you spray them on your neck, wrist or clothing.

Now that we have clarified the general framework and the concepts involved, let’s zoom in on the groups of substances that repeatedly come up in this discussion. The same caveat applies to all of them: perfume is rarely the only, and often not the largest, source of exposure.

Phthalates

Phthalates are synthetic compounds used worldwide as plasticisers, stabilisers and preservatives in a huge range of products: vinyl flooring, shower curtains, food packaging, toys, medical devices, synthetic clothing, shampoo, body lotion, nail polish, air fresheners, etc. [15]. They are also present in food itself and have been found in dairy products, meat, vegetables and fast food [15]. In perfume, phthalates may be used as fixatives and solvents: they help fragrance ingredients remain on the skin and fabric for longer [13][14].

Focusing exclusively on perfume as a source of phthalate exposure therefore misses the bigger picture. The relevant question is not so much “does my perfume contain phthalates?” but rather “what is my total daily exposure, and how can I meaningfully reduce it?” This is exactly the approach used by safety authorities themselves [10].

For the most problematic variants (DEHP, DBP, BBP and DIBP), the scientific evidence for endocrine-disrupting effects is strongest, and they are therefore banned as cosmetic ingredients in the EU [1][14].

Diethyl Phthalate (DEP), the only variant that is still permitted, has been assessed several times by the European scientific committee SCCS and considered safe at the concentrations used in practice [5]. This is not an eternal free pass: assessments continue and scientific knowledge evolves.

When DEP is used in a perfume, it must legally be listed. Among all the perfumes in the Smell Stories range for which we currently have access to the ingredient list, none lists Diethyl Phthalate (or DEP) as an ingredient.

Parabens

Parabens are preservatives: they prevent bacteria and fungi from growing in cosmetic formulations. They are not used for their scent, but to preserve the product.

In alcohol-based perfumes, parabens are technically unnecessary because alcohol itself has antimicrobial properties. They are therefore rarely found in perfume, but rather in water-based formulations such as creams, lotions and some body sprays.

The science here is nuanced: parabens can act like the hormone oestrogen in the body. The UN Environment Programme identified propylparaben and butylparaben as endocrine disruptors or potential endocrine disruptors [9]. The EU has acted accordingly: five variants (benzylparaben, phenylparaben, pentylparaben, isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben) are completely banned [1]. For propylparaben and butylparaben, the permitted concentration has been reduced, and their use in products for children under 3 in the nappy area is prohibited [1]. Methylparaben and ethylparaben are considered safe based on the available data at the permitted concentrations [1].

If parabens are used in a perfume, they must be listed in the ingredients. Based on the information currently available to us, we have found no mention of parabens in any of the perfumes we offer at Smell Stories.

Synthetic musks

Animal musk has been completely banned in the EU since 1979. In modern perfumery, musk is therefore synthetic. There is no single synthetic musk: there are many different types, which makes this subject more complex and nuanced.

We can currently divide synthetic musks into 4 categories:

• Nitro musks: this is the oldest group, and also the most problematic in terms of toxicity, endocrine activity and persistence in the environment. They have therefore largely been banned. Only musk ketone may still be used in minimal quantities, but in practice it is hardly ever found in perfume anymore.
  
  
• Polycyclic musks: these became popular as an alternative to the older nitro musks. They are inexpensive, highly substantive and remain on skin and textiles for a long time. They are used not only in perfume, but also in laundry detergents, fabric softeners and air fresheners [12]. The most common are galaxolide (HHCB) and tonalide (AHTN).
  
  Galaxolide is currently receiving particular attention, not only as an allergen (so it must be listed on the label), but also because of possible reproductive toxicity and, above all, because it is persistent in the environment. It can therefore enter wastewater and subsequently reach living organisms.
  
  At the time of publication of this article, the use of galaxolide in perfume is permitted, but the regulations surrounding it are evolving. The French health agency ANSES proposed classifying galaxolide as toxic to reproduction (Category 1B) [11]. In March 2026, the Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) of the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) supported this proposal and concluded that the substance should indeed receive this classification [11][12]. It is now up to the European Commission to decide whether to include this new classification in Annex VI of the CLP Regulation. Several further legal steps will then have to be completed before we have clarity on whether galaxolide can continue to be used in cosmetics, and therefore in perfume.
  
  
• Macrocyclic musks: these have a completely different chemical structure from their predecessors, with a more favourable toxicological and environmental profile, and are now widely used in quality perfumery. Examples include ambrettolide and ethylene brassylate. These types of musk are permitted and there are also no known allergenic risks, which means they do not have to be listed as individual ingredients.
  
  
• Alicyclic musks: these are the newest types of musk. They are less persistent and less bioaccumulative and are currently generally accepted and permitted.

So you cannot lump all musks together, and with these substances the issue is not only their potential health risks but also their possible environmental impact. The one currently deserving the most attention is galaxolide. Want to avoid galaxolide as an ingredient? Check whether Hexamethylindanopyran (the chemical name for galaxolide) appears in the ingredient list. Among all the perfumes we offered at the date of publication of this article, we found only 8 in which this ingredient was listed. All the others therefore contain either no musk or other types of musks.

UV filters

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3, also known as oxybenzone) is not a fragrance ingredient, but it is used in some perfumes and cosmetics as a light stabiliser, to prevent the formula from breaking down when exposed to light.

After a ten-year evaluation, ECHA classified BP-3 as an endocrine disruptor for both human health and the environment [8]. Denmark wants to officially classify BP-3 as an endocrine disruptor under the EU CLP Regulation in 2026. This could potentially lead to mandatory formula changes for cosmetic products in the future [8]. The SCCS has already concluded that BP-3 used as a UV filter in sunscreen applied to the body is not safe at the former maximum concentration of 6%, but is safe in face cream and lipstick [6]. In other cosmetic products, including perfume when used as a light stabiliser, 0.5% is considered safe [6][7].

Because it is not a fragrance ingredient, this ingredient must be listed on the packaging. At Smell Stories, we have not yet found it on the ingredient list of any of the products we offer.

Do you know that you have an allergy, or do you want to avoid any substance that could pose a risk in case of excessive exposure? Then check the ingredients on the packaging. Under the EU Cosmetics Regulation, every ingredient used in a perfume must be listed on the packaging using its INCI name. There is also a list of 82 fragrance allergens which, when used in a fragrance composition above the threshold of 0.001%, must be listed separately by name.

You have probably noticed that almost every perfume also lists “fragrance (parfum)” as an ingredient. This is an umbrella term that perfume brands may use for the fragrance ingredients used in the perfume that are not on the fragrance allergen list. This is a deliberate exception that allows the perfumer to protect their formula. A perfume cannot be patented or copyrighted.

However, all fragrance allergens used, as well as all ingredients that are not fragrance ingredients, such as alcohol, preservatives, fixatives, UV filters, solvents, etc., must be listed. You can therefore always check the fragrance allergens and, for example, see whether or not phthalates or parabens are used.

At Smell Stories, we try to consistently provide the ingredient list for every product in our webshop. We do not always have this information available digitally, which is why it is still missing for some products. We are doing everything we can to keep the information on our website complete and up to date. If you are unsure, please feel free to contact us.

This aspect is almost always missing from the social media discussion, even though the science is relatively clear on this point.

Fragrance ingredients are volatile organic compounds (VOCs): they evaporate at room temperature into the surrounding air. Some VOCs also react with ozone indoors and form secondary air pollutants, including formaldehyde [17][18]. Repeated indoor exposure can cause skin, respiratory and systemic effects, including headaches, asthma attacks and mucous membrane irritation [17][19].

Two nuances are crucial here:

1. Under normal outdoor conditions, or with occasional use in well-ventilated spaces, concentrations of fragrance chemicals are generally well below the thresholds for sensory irritation [18].
2. The greatest risks are associated with cumulative use in poorly ventilated indoor spaces, and particularly with products that continuously emit fragrance ingredients, such as air fresheners and scented candles, rather than a few sprays of perfume on the skin [17][18].

For people with asthma and for those who work in a perfume shop, this is therefore something to keep in mind. Ventilation is important to help prevent possible headaches, irritation, breathing difficulties and asthma exacerbations during prolonged exposure to fragranced products [19].

So far, we have used the average healthy adult as our reference point. But science makes a clear distinction for certain specific groups.

Pregnant women. The developing foetus is particularly sensitive to endocrine-active substances because hormones play a crucial role in the early development of organs, the brain and the reproductive system. Many women use between 12 and 16 personal care products per day, which can lead to daily exposure to more than 160 chemicals. Cumulative exposure through all these products combined is precisely the issue recognised by Belgian and European health authorities as well [20].

Young children. The first 1,000 days of life, from pregnancy through the second year, are a crucial period for physical and brain development. In April 2026, the Belgian Federal Public Service for Health launched a national awareness campaign specifically about endocrine disruptors and young children [20]. For children and pregnant women, it is recommended to use as few fragranced products as possible.

People with asthma, COPD or chemical sensitivity. For these people, VOC emissions from fragranced products are a documented point of concern [19]. Ventilation and mindful product use are the most sensible measures.

The message is not that “perfume is dangerous for everyone”, but that for vulnerable groups, it can be worthwhile to make more conscious choices, use less and choose formulas with a transparent ingredient list.