Let’s talk about musk. The olfactory chameleon. The ultimate skin-hugger. The note that whispers more than it shouts but somehow manages to stay with you all day.

But there is not just one musk ...

Act I: Musk, the wild one

In the beginning, musk wasn’t made in a lab, it came from the backside of a deer. The original musk was a glandular secretion from the male musk deer, and perfumers would dry it into a grainy, potent substance that smelled rather “earthy”. Imagine the scent of an animal that’s been hibernating in a Himalayan cave for six months. Intense, sensual, deeply warm. And incredibly expensive.

Due to obvious ethical issues (and the deer population not exactly thriving with that kind of business model), animal musk has been banned in perfumery for decades. But its legacy lives on.

Act II: Enter the synthetics

When nature closed one door, chemistry kicked open another. Today, most musks in perfumery are synthetic. This type of musks don’t just copy the original. They remix it. Think of them like different genres in the musk playlist:

• Nitro musks: The vintage vinyls. Old-school, rich, but now banned or restricted for environmental reasons.
• Polycyclic musks: Cleaner, floral, used in everything from perfumes to laundry detergents. But they’re also under scrutiny for being persistent in nature.
• Macrocyclic musks: The new eco-friendly pop stars. Molecules like muscone and ambrettolide mimic natural musk beautifully, with less impact.
• Alicyclic musks: The indie kids. Bright, fruity, and a little experimental.

Each has a slightly different vibe, from creamy and powdery to woody, sweet, or laundry-fresh.

Act III: Plants want a say too

Botanical musks aren’t true musks in the chemical sense, but plants that evoke a musky character, like the baseline of a scent rather than the main melody. The most common are ambrette seed (from a type of hibiscus), which has a soft, skin-like aroma with pear and winey facets and angelica root, with its earthy, slightly spicy glow.

Botanical musks are subtle, less tenacious than synthetics, but they offer a natural, radiant warmth that sits beautifully on the skin, like a cashmere scarf in sunlight.

Act IV: What about white musk?

Despite its angelic name, white musk doesn’t come from clouds or freshly washed unicorns. It’s a type of synthetic musk that was created to smell cleaner, fresher, and less animalic than traditional musks. Think less “sexy deer in the woods” and more “linen drying in the sun”.

The term “white musk” first appeared in the 1920s, but it really blew up in the '80s and '90s thanks to brands like The Body Shop. Since then, it’s become shorthand for that soft, soapy, barely-there scent we associate with freshly washed skin.

There’s no official category called “white musk” in chemistry. It’s more of a marketing term or olfactory style. But in practice, here’s how they usually differ:

White musks often come from the polycyclic or macrocyclic families, but the idea is less about molecule names and more about vibe: clean, gentle, and a little bit nostalgic.

White musk became a staple in perfumes, body care, and detergents because it gives that “just showered” feeling. It’s also super affordable, hypoallergenic, and has great staying power.

The downside? Because it’s used so much, some noses have become desensitized to it, or worse, associate it with generic supermarket products. It’s the olfactory equivalent of white bread: comforting, but not always exciting.

That’s why many niche perfumers use musk more creatively, combining white musks with natural musky botanicals or darker musks to create contrast and complexity. Think of it like playing with light and shadow in a painting.

Act V: Musk is (not) for everyone

Here’s where it gets weird: not everyone can smell musk.

Thanks to genetic variations, some people are anosmic to certain musk molecules, especially macrocyclic ones. You spray a perfume, everyone gets excited, and you’re there like, “Wait, is this unscented?” Nope, it’s just your nose playing tricks.

That’s part of musk’s magic: it’s intimate. Skin-like. Sometimes ghostly. It might be loud to others but invisible to you. Or vice versa. It’s the ultimate olfactory shapeshifter.

Musk remains a cornerstone in perfumery, valued for its ability to add depth, warmth, and longevity to fragrances. Whether perceived as a subtle skin-like aroma or a more pronounced sensual note, musk continues to captivate and intrigue both perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike.

Some great examples

If you're looking for the "clean" type: 

• Poudre de Musc by Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur : soft musks with a cocktail of aldehydes, florals and sandalwood.
• FLORAE by AETHER: a unique blend of musks with rose, iris, neroli and sandalwood.
• Musc Angélique by Maison VIOLET: Soft white musks with angelica root, iris and incense.

If you prefer the more sensual type: 

• Unspoken Musk by Francesca Bianchi: a more edgy, emotional musk with iris, animalic notes and woods.
• Oh my Deer! by Baruti: a scent that opens bright but evolves into something very sensual and enveloping.

Photo credits: Nauris Pūķis on Unsplash.